Under cabinet lighting makes the difference between a dark, cramped kitchen and a workspace that’s functional after sunset. WAC Lighting has built a reputation among contractors and serious DIYers for fixtures that deliver consistent color temperature, minimal flicker, and installation options that work with both new construction and retrofit projects. Unlike bargain-bin LED strips that fade or shift color within a year, WAC systems use commercial-grade components designed for kitchens, workshops, and display applications where light quality matters. This guide covers what sets WAC apart, which system types fit different cabinet configurations, and how to plan an installation that meets electrical code.
Key Takeaways
- WAC under cabinet lighting delivers commercial-grade LED fixtures with CRI ratings of 90+ and L70 lifespans exceeding 50,000 hours, ensuring superior color accuracy and brightness retention compared to budget alternatives.
- WAC lighting systems are available in three formats—LED strip lights, puck lights, and linear bar lights—each suited to different cabinet layouts and task lighting needs.
- Low-voltage (12V or 24V) WAC systems require compatible drivers and dimmers to prevent flickering and buzzing; choosing the correct dimmer protocol (TRIAC, ELV, or 0-10V) is critical for optimal performance.
- Proper installation requires selecting a driver with at least 20% overhead capacity, following NEC code requirements for hardwired systems, and using aluminum channels or diffusers when direct LED view is possible.
- Field-adjustable color temperature and daisy-chain linking options on WAC fixtures simplify retrofit projects and eliminate costly returns when matching existing kitchen lighting.
What Is WAC Under Cabinet Lighting?
WAC Lighting manufactures low-voltage and line-voltage LED fixtures engineered for task and accent lighting beneath wall cabinets. The company focuses on architectural-grade products used in residential kitchens, retail displays, and commercial installations where color accuracy and long-term performance justify higher upfront cost.
Most WAC under cabinet fixtures use LED technology with CRI (Color Rendering Index) ratings of 90 or higher, meaning colors appear natural under the light, critical when chopping vegetables or matching paint samples. Standard hardware-store LED strips often sit at CRI 80, which can make reds look muddy and whites appear greenish.
WAC systems typically operate on 12V or 24V DC power supplied by plug-in or hardwired drivers, though the company also offers 120V AC models that connect directly to household circuits. The low-voltage approach reduces shock risk during installation and allows for longer cable runs without voltage drop, but it requires a transformer (driver) sized to the total wattage of connected fixtures.
These fixtures come with dimming capabilities compatible with most modern dimmer switches, including TRIAC, ELV (electronic low voltage), and 0-10V dimming protocols. Choosing the right dimmer matters, pairing a low-voltage WAC system with a standard incandescent dimmer can cause buzzing or flickering.
Why Choose WAC Lighting for Under Cabinet Applications
WAC fixtures cost more than big-box alternatives, but the difference shows up in lumen maintenance, thermal management, and installation flexibility.
Lumen maintenance refers to how well LEDs hold their brightness over time. Budget LED strips often lose 30% of their output within 3,000 hours. WAC rates their fixtures for L70 lifespans of 50,000+ hours, meaning they’ll still produce 70% of their original lumens after roughly six years of 24/7 operation. For typical kitchen use (4 hours daily), that’s decades before noticeable dimming.
WAC fixtures use aluminum housings with integrated heat sinks that pull heat away from LED chips. Excess heat is the main killer of LED lifespan. Cheaper plastic-bodied fixtures trap heat, accelerating lumen degradation and color shift.
The company offers field-adjustable color temperature on select models, letting installers toggle between 2700K (warm white), 3000K (soft white), and 3500K (neutral white) via a switch on the fixture. This eliminates guesswork during ordering and allows homeowners to match existing lighting without returning products.
WAC’s linking systems let installers daisy-chain multiple fixtures from a single power source using low-voltage connectors or hardwired jumpers. This reduces the number of drivers needed and simplifies retrofit projects where running new home runs to a panel isn’t practical.
For projects requiring ADA compliance or Title 24 energy standards (California), WAC provides spec sheets with photometric data and energy consumption figures that meet code requirements. Most DIY-grade products don’t supply this documentation.
Types of WAC Under Cabinet Lighting Systems
WAC offers three main fixture formats, each suited to different cabinet layouts and lighting goals.
LED Strip Lights
LED tape or ribbon lights from WAC come in 12V or 24V configurations, mounted on flexible printed circuit boards that cut to length at designated intervals (usually every 2 to 4 inches). The tape adheres to the underside of cabinets using 3M VHB (Very High Bond) tape on the backing.
These work best for continuous runs along the full depth of a cabinet. WAC’s InvisiLED tape products include options with IP65-rated silicone coatings for damp locations, though most under-cabinet applications don’t require weatherproofing.
Strip lights produce a smooth wash of light with no visible hotspots, but they require a separate aluminum channel or diffuser if direct view of the LEDs is possible. Bare LED tape creates harsh point-source glare.
Installation involves cleaning the mounting surface with isopropyl alcohol, applying the tape, and connecting pigtail leads to a driver. WAC’s quick-connect accessories simplify wiring without soldering.
Puck Lights
Puck lights are disc-shaped fixtures typically 2.5 to 4 inches in diameter, surface-mounted or recessed into the cabinet bottom. WAC’s puck systems use low-voltage wiring that runs from fixture to fixture, terminating at a central driver.
They’re ideal for spot lighting on countertops, illuminating a coffee station, sink area, or specific work zones rather than providing uniform coverage. Spacing pucks 12 to 18 inches apart avoids scalloping (alternating bright and dim patches).
WAC puck lights often include swivel or gimbal mechanisms that let users aim the beam, useful for highlighting backsplashes or creating angled task light. The company’s slim-profile pucks measure under 0.5 inches thick, fitting cabinets with minimal clearance.
Dimming puck systems requires a compatible driver: not all WAC drivers support dimming, so checking spec sheets before purchase prevents frustration.
Linear Bar Lights
Linear bars are rigid fixtures ranging from 6 to 48 inches long, with integrated LED arrays inside extruded aluminum housings. WAC’s models mount via clips or screws and link end-to-end using connectors that maintain electrical continuity without exposed wiring.
Bars deliver higher lumen output than tape, useful for kitchens with deep countertops (30 inches or more) where light needs to reach the backsplash and front edge. WAC’s LED T-Bar and Task Lighting Bar series include optical lenses that direct light downward, reducing glare for anyone standing at the counter.
These fixtures accept plug-in or hardwired drivers. Hardwired installations require a junction box and compliance with NEC Article 410 (luminaire installation). If the existing circuit lacks a neutral wire (common in older switch loops), a neutral must be pulled or an electronic switch used.
Linear bars work well in modern or transitional kitchens where clean lines matter. Their finished appearance eliminates the need for separate channels or trim.
Installation and Power Options for WAC Systems
WAC fixtures install via plug-in, direct-wire, or battery methods, each with trade-offs.
Plug-in systems use a driver with a standard 120V AC plug, connecting to an outlet inside or behind the cabinet. This approach requires no electrical permit in most jurisdictions and allows repositioning without rewiring. The downside: visible cords and reliance on outlet proximity. WAC’s plug-in drivers include inline switches or wireless remotes for control.
Hardwired installations connect the driver directly to a household circuit, controlled by a wall switch or dimmer. This method delivers a clean look with no visible cords but requires shutting off power at the breaker, installing a junction box if one isn’t present, and following NEC 110.3(B) (installation per manufacturer instructions). If the installer isn’t comfortable working with live circuits or interpreting wire gauges, hiring a licensed electrician is the safer call. Most jurisdictions require permits for adding new circuits or modifying existing ones.
Low-voltage wiring (12V or 24V) downstream of the driver doesn’t carry the same shock risk as line voltage, but the driver itself must be installed per code. Surface-mounting a driver inside a cabinet is common: securing it with screws and ensuring adequate ventilation prevents overheating.
Wireless control options include WAC-compatible smart switches or add-on modules that enable dimming and on/off control via smartphone apps or voice assistants. These typically require a neutral wire at the switch box, older homes wired with switch loops may need rewiring.
Before installation, measure the total wattage of all fixtures and select a driver with at least 20% overhead capacity. Running a driver at full rated load shortens its lifespan. For example, if fixtures total 40 watts, use a 50-watt driver.
Safety notes: Wear safety glasses when drilling into cabinets (wood dust and metal shavings), and use a non-contact voltage tester to confirm power is off before handling wires. If installing recessed pucks, avoid drilling into cabinet sides near hinge hardware, hitting a mounting screw with a hole saw ruins both the bit and the cabinet.
For retrofit projects, check whether existing cabinet construction uses particleboard or plywood. Particleboard doesn’t hold screws well for surface-mounted fixtures: using toggle bolts or adhesive-backed mounts provides better hold. Plywood accepts screws cleanly.
WAC provides installation manuals with each product, including wiring diagrams and mounting templates. Following these prevents warranty issues and ensures the system performs as designed.
